How to include an elevated dishwasher into an Ikea kitchen.
- Design and constraints
- Heights and support beams
- Installation on-site
- Downloads and photos
This is part 6.
The second phase, after construction of the cabinets, is the installation on-site.
1. Prepare the location
- Make sure there are enough power outlets behind the Tower for all the appliances. They should have have a ground (PE) lead.
Make sure there is an available tap for the water intake hose and a point where to connect the waste water hose.
2. Build the Tower
Fix the 2 ‘uncut’ wooden support beams to the wall to the right, such that they (1) rest on the floor, (2) are vertical, and (3) form a plane that is at right angles to the plane of the back wall. Depending on the wall, this might be easy or nearly impossible.
Position the bottom cabinet; adjust the legs so that it stands level. Then, position a 220 cm tall side cover panel (Förbättra) between it and the beams, onto the narrow ledge of the wooden panel that sticks out from under the right side of the bottom cabinet. Screw the cover panel onto the support beams with a few ‘light’ screws; they only need to hold up the cover panel until the top cabinet is screwed in place. Mark where the beams are located behind them with a pen, as shown on the photo. After that (not shown in images below), with the same light screws, fix one of the two 40 cm side cover panels above it, with the exposed/cut side facing up.
Fix the third wooden support beam to the back wall, using the bottom cabinet as a guide for its position left-to-right. (The beam must rest against the inside face of the left side panel.) This beam must also be vertical.
Position the bottom cabinet at the correct distance from the back wall, and fixate it to each support beam with a screw. In our case, to find the correct distance from the back wall, we needed to place the neighboring cabinet, because this distance was determined by the tiles, higher up. (Note that this cabinet rests with its right side panel on the wooden support panel screwed to the underside of the bottom cabinet.)
Position the wooden spacer frame on top of the bottom cabinet, and the top cabinet on top of that. Make sure its panels are vertical / horizontal, and fix it by drilling several screws through the side panels into the support beams.
Cut a recess out of the remaining side cover (Förbättra), so that the dishwasher’s water in- and output hoses can enter the Tower from the side. (I made a mistake, which is why the panel in the photo has 2 recesses.) Then, screw the cover onto the bottom and top cabinets with the screws Ikea provides (from the cabinet’s inside), as well as the remaining 40 cm piece. Especially towards the front of the top cabinet, be generous with screws – it’s not inconceivable the cover carries a small part of the load – but consider where appliances will go so that they won’t be in the way. When done, remove the spacer frame.
The cabinet to the Tower’s left also needs a cut-out recess for the hoses, and cutting a strip off the bottom panel is also practical. Depending on what you’ll use this cabinet for, make sure these recesses are far enough towards the back not to interfere with e.g. drawers.
3. Install the appliances
Prepare the dishwasher by shortening its feet as much as possible; it should now be just under 82 cm tall and therefore have 1 cm vertical wiggle room.
At about 40 cm above the bottom cabinet, install a hook or sling to hold the waste water hose. This is necessary to provide the dishwasher with enough pressure for the waste water pump. To protect against moisture from water vapour, I put some aluminium tape on the underside of the top cabinet (not visible in photo).
Slide the dishwasher in place, while continuously feeding the hoses through the hole. Because of the reduced thickness of the support beam here, the dishwasher should fit all the way into the Tower, with its front door (still without front panel) being flush with the cabinets to its top and bottom. After connecting (and possibly extending) the water hoses and the power cable, you should probably do a test run, before it gets harder to remove the device.
Also, place the drawer into the bottom cabinet. The dishwasher door should open flat and not come to within less than a cm of the drawer front panel.
(The front panel of the dishwasher needs more space than that, but we’ll jack up the dishwasher before we attach it.)
- Prepare the steam oven by crimping an electrical plug onto its power cable, if none is present.
Put the steam oven onto the bottom panel of the top cabinet, i.e., directly above the dishwasher, and connect the power cable. Also, place a shelf directly above the oven, so that no vertical space is wasted – the metal brackets and shelf come with the tall refrigerator cabinet. The shelf probably needs a small piece cut out in order to fit around the support beam.
Put the microwave on top and also connect the power cable. Also, put a shelf directly above it. This time another type of shelf is used, i.e., one for which no metal brackets are needed. This shelf should be the remaining shelf from the refrigerator cabinet.
When all is working, it’s time to install the front panel onto the dishwasher door. First use the adjustment screws to raise all (3) feet of the dishwasher by about 1 cm, so that it sits snugly in its recess. Measure the necessary front panel height; this should be about 72 cm as calculated above, but can probably also be a bit more, because the front panel could extend a little bit (~0.5 cm) beyond the dishwasher’s upper edge. As the steam oven’s door opens downward, make sure it is opened when measuring, so it doesn’t crash into the dishwasher’s front panel later. After shortening the 60×80 cm panel (by circular saw and/or in the hardware store, if possible), follow the dishwasher’s installation instructions to install it. Make sure the cut face is facing downward, so it’s out of sight.
And finally, the storage space above the microwave needs a door. For this, too, a 60×80 door panel is shortened, in this case to 63 cm (after measuring the necessary height). This is not the easiest way out – new sunk holes need to be drilled to fix the hinges, for example – but it is the prettiest. Alternatively, a 60×60 cm door could be used and fixed to the cabinet. For the few cm that remain uncovered by the door, a fixed blind would be cut and installed.
And here’s the finished Tower: