Elevated dishwasher (5/7)

How to include an elevated dishwasher into an Ikea kitchen.

  1. Introduction
  2. Design and constraints
  3. Heights and support beams
  4. Materials
  5. Construction
  6. Installation on-site
  7. Downloads and photos

This is part 5.


Building the Tower is done in 2 phases. First, all panels are cut to size and the bottom and top cabinets are built, among others. The image below shows how the materials from the 2 ikea cabinets are used to do this. How the 2 ikea cabinets (on left) are used to form the bottom and top cabinet of the Tower (on right). Parts that are discarded are marked with ‘x’. Note the colors, and how the upper half of the tall cabinet is actually turned upside down to form the top cabinet of the Tower.

1. Cut panels to size

From the tall refrigerator cabinet, take the 200 cm tall side panels, and cut them so as to keep 27 cm (27.2, to be exact) from the bottom (for the bottom cabinet), and 146 cm (or 146.2) from the top (for the top cabinet). Make sure there is a left and a right version of each; marked in light green in the image above.

From the small narrow cabinet, take the 2 side panels and shorten them to 60 cm (they are 80 cm when bought). These will be the top panels for the cabinets; marked in dark green in the image above.

From the Förvättra side cover panels, take one and cut it so as to keep 40 cm from each end. Leave the other 2 untouched. (Not shown in the image above.)

All these cuts are best made with a circular saw or at your local hardware store.

2. Make room for support beam

As you’ll see in the photos below, I’ve cut out a rectangular part of the 6 horizontally mounted panels/shelves, just as is shown on the image above. This is to make room for the left support beam. However, I suggest you do the following:

  • For the bottom and top panels of the cabinets (4 pieces; horizontal light and dark green in the image above), shorten their depth by x, where x is the size of the beam in direction perpendicular to the wall (7 cm in our case). This too is done best with a circular saw or in the hardware store. This is less work than cutting out a rectangular piece, and it allows for better ventilation.
  • For the 2 shelves, wait until the top cabinet is hanging, and cut them as necessary by positioning and measuring. You can use a keyhole saw for this.

3. Construct bottom cabinet

  • Connect the 27 cm tall side panels with the bottom panel, as per the manual.

  • Screw the 45 by 65-70 cm wooden panel to the bottom. Locate it such, that it’s sticking out of the right side by 1 cm (by all means, no more than 1.3 cm). Note that the right side is on the left when the cabinet is flipped over. On the other side, there is a larger part sticking out.

  • Screw on the legs, or leg holders. It is here that the legs need to be shortened by the thickness of the wooden panel, compared to the legs carrying all other cabinets. If you use the standard 8 cm Ikea legs, it might be easier to use wooden blocks to fill in the remainder.

  • Flip the cabinet right side up, screw in the rails for the drawer (in image below, right one is missing, and left one is only barely visible), screw in a bracket (including white plastic spacer block) in the right bottom corner (comes with all ikea cabinets, and comes in handy when trying to find the right distance from the back wall).

  • Take an upper panel and screw the metal brackets into it so that their vertical parts are 1.8 cm in from the sides. Their location front-to-back is not really relvant. Their function is to reinforce the panel carrying the dishwarsher.

  • Put the upper panel onto the cabinet and fix it with screws from the inside, as in the image below. Do not use screws with a very large head, as this might obstruct the opening and closing of the drawer. Additionally, one can drill some screws vertically down, through the upper panel into the side panels (I’ve also installed the flimsy back cover in this photo, but that’s not necessary, as the wooden support beams and metal brackets will offer plenty support against deformation.)

4. Construct top cabinet

Connect the 144 cm tall side panels with the remaining panels, in the same way as done for the bottom cabinet. The top panel is screwed onto the side panels by drilling some screws vertically down. No brackets or back cover are necessary, which means however that the cabinet will not resist deformation until it is installed.

5. Construct spacer for dishwasher recess

Using the four 83 cm tall wooden bars, construct a frame as shown in the picture below.

6. Prepare support beam

Take one of the three beams and cut recesses out of it according to the image below. Depending on what you have at your disposal and how thick the beam is, use a keyhole saw or milling machine, or be inventive. Note again that we used 15 cm legs; if you use the standard 8 cm Ikea legs, adjust the location of the recesses accordingly by subtracting 7 cm from the distances mentioned in the top part of the image.

Continue to: installation on-site

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